So, we have already covered puppy development. You can read that in the New Puppy time article. Teething is pretty simple I covered that a bit. What I do have to add is that I would discourage the use of rawhide and bones for puppies under six months. Without their teeth they will have trouble processing the bone and rawhide to pass it and it will compact their systems. Meaning, they will not be able to digest their food normally. It can result in an expensive trip tp the Vet. Just keep them up until they are six months old. After six months they can have natural bone. Rawhide I would encoyrage you keep to a minmum because the chemcals that can go into rawhide can be unhealthy. Puppy sfe chews include: Bully sticks, dental treats, Nylabone healthy edibles, non-rahide options, and Kong Ziggies are good too.
Potty training
The big thing that I don’t think is covered enough is that puppies need to be bored to go poop and pee outside. When a puppy is born they have the ENTIRE world to figure out. Just a car driving by can distract them from finishing their business. The best thing to do is to find a quiet area away from other dogs befor their immunizations, and repeatedly walk them around for an area. You can apply this to your yard. Also you can apply it to a block long location. If you are getting bored ( which is why people don’t like to do this method) then you are on the right track.
Then once the dog eliminates you can give a small treat, but I encourage verbal praise so that you have full control on when food comes in and out of your dog. Getting excited is underestimated by modern people, and it will really help your dog. Even between humans we let each other know about something because we were excited about it. If your friend gave you free concert tickets or 100$ dollars your voice would naturally go up and you would get excited!
When you get home. I really encourage that you leave the leash on. This is only until the puppy is six months and can hold back the poop and pee. Havng them within reach even in the same room with you is crtitcal because if they wander to far you are looking at another poop or pee. When your puppy goes poop or pee it is because they have to not because they hate you or are mad you are leaving them. Just like when you have to go, you have to go. Nature calls and all that. Watch your schedule so that you can cath them going poop or pee.
Here is the schedule again
Wake up
Feed your dog (if it is a puppy) **Leave the bowl down for 20 mins and pick it back up.
Exercise/Potty training for puppies
Either/or
Feeding your dog (if it is an adult) **Leave the bowl down for 20 mins and pick it back up.
Nap time
** Just for extra clairty if you “free feed” then your dog will make little sneaky poops that you will not catch. It will drive you crazy.
If you catch your dog in that exact moment then you can do emphatic “Hey” or clapping then move them outside or to the pee pad. This will teach your puppy where to go. Make sure that you do not leave them unsupervised until ALL the poop and pee is out.
If your dog bites at the leash use white vinegar and soak the whole thing through for 20 mins. Also I would work on the “redirect” mentioned in the previous article. Getting a good “focus” command or watch is going to be my next article, and I am very excited to write that over the next week. This will also stop them from biting the leash.
Crate/Kennel Training
I do know that people have been cruel with a crate. I have had rescues that I have to teach crate training without a crate using a small room because they cannot be in a crate. Even with a small room the same training still applies. The crate when used properly is a safe place for your dog to have to themselves. Just like a child’s room is to a child, same thing. You would not lock kids up for twelve hours a day in their room. It is where they sleep take a nap, relax.
My next biggest challenges with people and crate is that people with a small studio apartment get a dog, and then the dog can’t calm down when the person walks by them. You can cover the crate with a sheet or a cover but this will not work for everydog. Sometimes a chew in the crate can help. Even still just tiring out your dog. Sometimes bedrooms are too small to fit a crate. The Bedroom is the best place for the crate because then you both sleep there. It is the quietest room in the house. It is easy to move to your bed if you are crate training your dog at night. I did this with my dog Jezebel who hated the crate.
Dogs should not be in the crate for longer then eight hours. People going to work can do their shift, but come right back to take care of their dog. Your dog is your responsibility. Please, exercise your dog. I know it is hard because you are tired from work. Consider exercising your dog is like going to the gymn before and after work.
From a Potty Training perspective if your dog wanders around they will poop and pee. So for short times when you cannot supervise them put them in the crate. Errands, showers, maybe something dangerous has spilled on the floor that you know will hurt them. If you are planning on using the crate for punishment I would still suggest the leash instead of the crate until the dog calms down. This will be covered more later.
Crates will also lower chances of damage to your home besides the Potty training aspect. Dogs are natural foragers, and your apartment or home is their territory. Their doggie nature tells them to go find food. This can mean destruction to socks, garbage cans, and even electrical wires. If you are not going to be using a crate then you will have to Puppy Proof your house. Picking up things that they can destroy or building barriers around sensitive spots.
This is a big topic. Take it slow expect it to take up to three months, but I promise it will be worth the work.
Happy Training!
Pawvana 